We’re getting down to the final stages of construction now with the decking going on the boat. All of the blocking and mast partners were fixed into the boat before the deck went on. So the next stage is putting the cockpit coaming on.
Below you can see the forward section of the coaming being glued into place and the first section of the aft section going on. I’ll cut the top of the coaming to match the deck sheer when the glue is set.
Here you can see that the top has been cut to match the deck sheer and the next pieces will be the transom section of the coaming, the oak edging strip for the ply and a small bow piece . There’s a few other pieces of news in the pipeline here at Roeboats. If you’re subscribed to the newsletter you already know. So if you want to be on the inside track of what’s happening at Roeboats sign up by clicking on the link in the right hand sidebar.
Now the slow work starts with the fitting out of the hull. You can see here in the picture below that I’m attaching the seat supports and deck beam for the aft deck. I used brackets as intermediary supports for the seats instead of cleats and legs so that the cockpit sole would be clear. Making it easier to clean and giving more room to lie down in the forward section underneath the spray hood.Here the seats are being fitted to the hull curvature and will be fixed down to the supports with the required doublers for taking the strain of the fittings that will be attached.
Here the deck carlin is going in. It’s white oak so I had to rip the forward end so that it would take the bend . The pile of stuff on the foredeck are parts of the rudder.
Once the carlin was in place I was able to begin work on laying the deck; but before that I had to make a template for the cockpit coaming. This is the forward section been marked out. You can just see the deck doublers at the fore deck. I decided to infill the whole deck as there are a lot of fittings in this area which would otherwise require lots of separate pads. This should make the bow strong and stiff to take the forces exerted by the unstayed mast.
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Well I’ve trimmed back the bottom planking and Attached the white oak keel. In the photo below you can see me trimming the opening of the centreboard slot with a router and pattern bit so that it will match the centreboard case exactly. This was followed by a pass with a 9mm round-over bit to give the opening an nice rounded edge. If there is one thing you don’t want on a boat it is a sharp edge. Well maybe on the trailing edge of a rudder or centreboard and of course your knife. Rapier sharp wits are optional.Once the hull was sanded and all the edges are nicely rounded it was time to sheathe the hull in fibreglass and epoxy resin. This was a time consuming but undifficult operation. I left the skeg off until the hull was sheathed to make it a bit easier to sheath around this area. You can also see that I have added the outer stem piece before sheathing.The next step was to apply a thin layer of fairing compound to help fill the weave of the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles (there were none of course). I emphasise a thin layer because most if not all of the fairing was done to the framework before the planking was applied. Like hanging doors where he who makes the frame should hang the door the same applies to fairing, he who applies the fairing compound should be the one to sand it off.
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