Well it’s time to roll the 16 foot sharpie lug-sail yawl outside to fit the masts. It was easy enough to jack the boat up on to some wheeled dollies that I use a lot as I work mostly alone.And then all she needed was a bit of a shove out the door.
I stopped just before the ramp down out of the workshop just to make sure she was lined up right and wouldn’t run away from me.
Here she is ready for levelling and the fitting of the masts.
Here she is with the masts stepped. She still needs her final sanding and floor boards fitted but she’s pretty much done at this stage. I’m just waiting on the sails now to do a final test rigging and the owner will be picking her up. If you would like your own boat built for you why not give me a ring on +353 86 158 69 37 or +353 28 38973 to discuss your project. Or by e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org.
We’re getting down to the final stages of construction now with the decking going on the boat. All of the blocking and mast partners were fixed into the boat before the deck went on. So the next stage is putting the cockpit coaming on.
Below you can see the forward section of the coaming being glued into place and the first section of the aft section going on. I’ll cut the top of the coaming to match the deck sheer when the glue is set.
Here you can see that the top has been cut to match the deck sheer and the next pieces will be the transom section of the coaming, the oak edging strip for the ply and a small bow piece . There’s a few other pieces of news in the pipeline here at Roeboats. If you’re subscribed to the newsletter you already know. So if you want to be on the inside track of what’s happening at Roeboats sign up by clicking on the link in the right hand sidebar.
Now the slow work starts with the fitting out of the hull. You can see here in the picture below that I’m attaching the seat supports and deck beam for the aft deck. I used brackets as intermediary supports for the seats instead of cleats and legs so that the cockpit sole would be clear. Making it easier to clean and giving more room to lie down in the forward section underneath the spray hood.Here the seats are being fitted to the hull curvature and will be fixed down to the supports with the required doublers for taking the strain of the fittings that will be attached.
Here the deck carlin is going in. It’s white oak so I had to rip the forward end so that it would take the bend . The pile of stuff on the foredeck are parts of the rudder.
Once the carlin was in place I was able to begin work on laying the deck; but before that I had to make a template for the cockpit coaming. This is the forward section been marked out. You can just see the deck doublers at the fore deck. I decided to infill the whole deck as there are a lot of fittings in this area which would otherwise require lots of separate pads. This should make the bow strong and stiff to take the forces exerted by the unstayed mast.
If you would like your own custom built boat either sail or power why not give me a ring or drop me an e-mail to discuss your project at +353 86 158 69 37 or email@example.com
Well I’ve trimmed back the bottom planking and Attached the white oak keel. In the photo below you can see me trimming the opening of the centreboard slot with a router and pattern bit so that it will match the centreboard case exactly. This was followed by a pass with a 9mm round-over bit to give the opening an nice rounded edge. If there is one thing you don’t want on a boat it is a sharp edge. Well maybe on the trailing edge of a rudder or centreboard and of course your knife. Rapier sharp wits are optional.Once the hull was sanded and all the edges are nicely rounded it was time to sheathe the hull in fibreglass and epoxy resin. This was a time consuming but undifficult operation. I left the skeg off until the hull was sheathed to make it a bit easier to sheath around this area. You can also see that I have added the outer stem piece before sheathing.The next step was to apply a thin layer of fairing compound to help fill the weave of the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles (there were none of course). I emphasise a thin layer because most if not all of the fairing was done to the framework before the planking was applied. Like hanging doors where he who makes the frame should hang the door the same applies to fairing, he who applies the fairing compound should be the one to sand it off.
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Well progress continues with the building of the 16 foot Catbird lugsail Yawl. As you can see I started with the side planking which I had already cut out to shape. This was provided with the plans so I didn’t have to do any spiling. I decided to butt strap the side planking and scarf the bottom. Scarphing the bottom ensured that there was no obstruction for water to gather behind in the bilge.
All of the planking was coated in three coats of epoxy resin and sanded before assembly. It was easier to do it now than when assembled. I would have liked to have six foot long arms when I was putting the bottom sheets on or at least a helper. It was a little tricky lifting the forward sheet clear of the glue spread on the frames and chines and placing it square to the centreline. The aft sheet was easier. You can now get a good impression of the boats size. She’s a pretty voluminous boat for here modest length and beam.
Anyway here she is planked up. I didn’t cut the bottom planks before glueing them down. I’ll trim back to the side planking when the epoxy has dried. Next step is the filling of all the screw hole etc. prior to attaching the keel and glassing the hull. If you’d like to get more info from Roeboats about upcoming projects and news why not subscribe to Roeboats Quarterly Newsletter by clicking here. Or if you would like your own custom boat built why not give me ring or send me an e-mail at the contact below. I’m always interested in talking about boats.
Here are the nexts steps in building the Karl Stambaugh’s Catbird 16 Lugsail sharpie yawl. First up is attaching the chine which had to be laminated up to take the tuck up at the stern but it went in fairly easily just took twice the glueing time.
The gunwales were next to go on and it ‘s always a bit nerve wracking putting the gunwale on a boat that is upside down as it is very difficult to be sure that the sheer will have a pleasing sweep and not have what’s called powderhorn. The dread of every boatbuilder. Once botht the chine and gunwale were on it was time to cut the bevel in the stem which was aa straighforward affair as the Catbird has a two part stem for ease of construction.
Below you can see me finishing off the scarphing of the bottom planking. In the foreground is the centreboard being laminated up. That’s all for now work got a little side tracked today as I was showing a potential client the Ninigret I built last year. I had forgotten how much fun she is in the water.
Here are a few photos of the first steps in building a wooden 16 foot sharpie sailing boat. First the wood for the chines, inwales, and keel are jointed and planed to thickness. Here I’m checking them for square and straightness.
Then I have to mark out the frames on the sheets of half inch plywood. I nested the frames as best I could on the sheets to reduce wastage. This was fairly easy to do as as the sharpie hull shape is very economical with materials. One of the reasons that it has remained a very popular traditional hull form. Perhaps more boats should be flat bottomed wooden boats. Of course more boats should be wooden boats. Then the frames had to be cut out with a hand circular saw and a guide rail. I did use a jigsaw in some locations but the circular saw is much quicker and leaves a straighter cut.
Well that’s all you are getting to see so far. We actually seem to be having some Summer weather here in Ireland for the first time in years and it is getting very very hard to stay in the workshop and not just go sailing.